What I Ate in Florence (and What I'd Skip)

It's easy to get Florence wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning when I tried to order a cappuccino at a café on Via dei Calzaiuoli, only to be gently corrected by a barista who said, "Signora, here it's espresso only before noon." I'd read the rules but hadn't internalized them, and I was left holding a tiny cup of black coffee while watching tourists guzzle milk-based drinks like it was normal. By lunch, I'd learned my lesson—and the city had already started to feel less like a postcard and more like a living, breathing place.

My favorite meal so far has been at Trattoria Mario, tucked away on a quiet corner of Via dei Neri. I walked past it twice before noticing the hand-painted sign above the door, and I'm glad I did. The menu is written on a chalkboard, and the prices are shockingly reasonable for the quality: a plate of pappardelle al cinghiale (wild boar pasta) costs €14 and comes with a side of roasted vegetables. I sat at the bar, watching the chef toss the pasta with a heavy hand, and the sauce was rich but not overwhelming. It’s open for lunch and dinner, but I’d recommend going for lunch to avoid the evening rush. The owner, Mario, even brought me a complimentary glass of house wine when he saw me eyeing the menu too long. I left with a full stomach and a new respect for Florentine simplicity.

Another standout was a lunch at La Giostra, a tiny spot near the Ponte Vecchio. I stumbled upon it after getting lost while trying to find a specific gelato shop, and it was worth the detour. The menu changes daily, but on my visit, they were serving ribollita—a hearty Tuscan bread soup—along with a simple salad for €8. The soup was thick, made with leftover bread and vegetables, and it tasted like the kind of meal your nonna would make. I sat at a small table outside, sipping on a carafe of local Chianti, and watched the river flow by. It’s open from 12:30 PM to 3:00 PM for lunch, so it’s perfect for a quick, authentic bite if you're near the river.

Most visitors get the food culture wrong. They think Florence is all about fancy restaurants and expensive wine, but the real magic is in the everyday spots where locals eat. I’ve seen tourists line up for hours at places like Trattoria Sostanza, only to miss out on the quieter, more authentic spots just a few steps away. The city isn't about the destination—it's about the journey, and the food is the best way to experience it. I've been to a few of the restaurants in Florence that are often recommended, but the ones that truly captured my heart were the ones I found by accident, where the menu is written on a chalkboard and the owner knows your name by the second visit.

One thing I’ve learned since arriving is to always ask for the daily special. It’s usually the best dish of the day, and it’s often cheaper than the regular menu items. At Trattoria Mario, I got a taste of the chef’s secret recipe for bistecca alla Fiorentina (a thick-cut T-bone steak) for €18, which is a steal compared to what I've seen elsewhere. It was cooked to perfection, with a smoky char on the outside and a juicy center. The key is to go early, before the lunch rush, and to be ready to say "sì" to whatever's on offer.

For anyone planning a trip, my practical tip is to wear comfortable shoes and bring a small notebook. You’ll want to jot down the names of places you like, because once you find a spot you love, it’s easy to forget where it is. I’ve already bookmarked two places for my next visit, and I’m already planning my return trip just to eat there again. Florence isn't just a city to visit—it's a city to savor, one meal at a time.